And Just Like That... It was Done

This particular post makes me pine for the days of Live Journal, when you could use a little figure to denote your mood and choose a song that expressed how you were feeling. Nevertheless, I'm going to break that mold and tell you my mood AND my song RIGHT NOW. 

Mood: Anxiously Elated 

Song: "Even Better than the Real Thing," by U2 (Achtung Baby) 

About an hour and a half ago, I completed my first year of rabbinical school. Final final finished, every last paper turned in, goodbyes said, every necessary piece of closure completed. I'm kind of in shock, and not really sure what to do with myself, but I'm happy and relieved to be done, and very much looking forward to going home. 

It's a little bit unsettling and bizarre to be done; to be walking around an apartment that's half-packed and fully messy, thinking about the last-minute things I have to do before I leave Saturday night. I'm a bit in limbo, but I'm also in celebration mode. As we say in Hebrew, it's a little gam v'gam.

I cannot believe that I made it through this year. Literally. Can. Not. Believe. What. I. Just. Did. When Adam left back in September I remember him telling me how much he looked forward to me coming home in May because I would feel so accomplished; that if I could make it through this, I could make it through anything. And you know what? He was one hundred percent right.

This was by far and away the toughest year of my life. I don't think I've ever been so challenged by so many different elements - by school, by people, by Judaism, by Israel, by my own health; it seemed this year that every time I thought I'd figured one thing out, something else would pop up in its place and go "Oh, hey you! Yeah, you! LOOK AT ME I AM TALKING TO YOU! FIGURE ME OUT RIGHT THIS SECOND OR I WILL PUNISH YOU MUAH HA HA HA!" (That's my way of explaining the ubiquitous menace in my Israeli life. Deal with it.)

And I never thought I'd say this, but I am so grateful that this was not an easy year. I'm incredibly appreciative of what it's taught me. I'm proud of myself for sticking it out and making it through eleven months in an entirely different universe, dealing with each challenge thrown my way and learning and growing as a person in the process. I'm proud of myself for doing it all on my own - an independent woman - without my beloved Jew Fro by my side. And while it wasn't a perfect year, it was an amazing one. I know that I will never, ever be able to relive what I just did in any other place, in any other capacity, in any other time of my life. I feel incredibly blessed to have had this year here. 

And so I thank you, Israel. Thank you HUC. Thank you Ramban Street, and Wolfson Medical Center, and Asaf Gershon my laundry man, and the fresh juice guy across from Supersol. Thank you Shabbat, and thank you TaNaKh, and thank you Hebrew. Thank you Ben Yehuda Street, and Zuni and Link and Chakra, and thank you Bar-On in the Old City for providing my family with Jew-y gifts. Thank you Tel Aviv and Haifa and the Galil; thank you Negev and Arava and Petra, and especially Binyamina. Todah Rabah l'ha kol. 

Thank you, all of you, who kept up with this journey of mine. Thank you for your love, your support, and above all else, for making me laugh. 

I'm off to get a massage. My body and soul deserve it! 

With love, 

Jaclyn

You say goodbye, I say hello?

Well, it's the beginning of the end of the beginning here in Jerusalem.

Hard to believe that one week from today I'll have full suitcases by the front door, a nearly-empty apartment, and a one-way ticket to Los Angeles in my hand. 

It's hard to process the whole thing because there are just so many emotions to feel. I'm ready, I'm not ready. I'm thrilled, I'm devastated. I'm excited for the next chapter and terrified of re-integrating into reality. And I'm sifting through all these emotions while attempting to study for finals and write these papers. And packing up all my crap. 

Anyway, rather than spend a full page blabbing on about my emotions, I decided to share pictures instead. So enjoy. 

This week's faculty-student soccer match. I'm sad to say, the teachers kicked our asses. And rather surprised to admit that, too. 

The uber-hot cheering section

HUC's #1 cheerleader, future Rabbi Amy Goodman

At last night's final banquet, with this year's surrogate boyfriend, Joel

One of the MOST awkward pictures of all time: Leslie and I looking cute and hiding Nancy behind us. Oh well. 

With beautiful Lisa B

Scrunching into a photo with Les, Leah, and Lisa. I love my L's! 

With the world's best roommate, Lauren. It kind of looks like I'm crushing her, but don't worry! It was all in good fun. 

Meredith and Ari performing one of their smash hits/rewritten words-to-Disney-songs at the final banquet last night. Mer's face pretty much encapsulates my year!

So there you go. Now back to the trenches. 

Love, 

Jaclyn

Shabbaton in Binyamina

This past weekend was one of the best I've had in Israel. I spent it in Binyamina, a small town on the coast, south of Haifa. It was there that our Parallel Lives group of students and soldiers had our final  Shabbaton together.

First mifgash: an intense discussion about community and world Jewry

Truth be told, few of us were looking forward to the Shabbaton. It came a mere week before our finals start, two weeks before many of us are scheduled to go home. Everyone's stressed and frenzied, and the thought of going up north to a foreign place made us all a little bit meshuggie. Yet somehow, we arrived in Binyamina on Friday morning refreshed and ready; we were greeted with an insane amount of love and respect from the community, and all of us - soldiers and students - had an awesome time. 

With my host mother, Orit Orr 

What made it so amazing? Well, I think it started with the natural beauty of Binyamina. It felt a lot like a sleepier, quieter, less fancy-shmancy Santa Barbara. Arriving there I felt so much lighter and happier; getting out of Jerusalem will do that to anyone. So right from the start, it felt good; it felt like a Shabbaton. 

Binyamina residents are unbelievably kind, and it's a small enough town that everyone seems to know and love each other. The family that hosted us (me and Rona, a female Tzahal soldier raised in Tel Aviv) was so fabulous. They were just awesome, lovely people. Orit and her husband Boaz had a warm, beautiful home. Within ten minutes I was in love with both of them, and felt totally comfortable in their house. They invited us in and fed us boatloads of delicious, homemade food. They wanted to know all about us - who we were and what we did. They were fascinated and supported my decision to become a rabbi. They were so alive, warm, and kind. It was the first time this entire year I felt welcome - truly welcome - in an Israeli home. 

With Boaz, Orit, and soldier Rona

The programs were mostly put together by Maya, who coordinates the program from the Israeli side, and the various residents of Binyamina who volunteered their time out of interest and generosity. LuAnne and I have coordinated the program the whole year from the HUC side, so it was great to be able to simply be participants. The events were planned beautifully. They were meaningful and significant and not over-the-top. We were also able to simply have downtime in our host families' homes. Which, obvi, I was thrilled to have. 

This weekend was the first time I was able to look back and understand what a tremendous experience Parallel Lives has been. I was also able to witness the impact it's had on students and soldiers. We each came away from this yearlong program understanding each other better, having learned about each others worlds. We became friends, we became a community. 

The group says goodbye... for now 

The most important part of Parallel Lives, for me, was building a bridge between Israeli elite unit soldiers from all over the country and a select group of aspiring clergy members in North America's Reform Movement. In a time when Israel's Progressive Movement is struggling to find its voice, its identity, and its legitimacy, I feel that I contributed some small part to the cause. I feel that I did something to help bring the beauty of Reform Judaism to the Israeli masses. Hearing what the soldiers learned about us, and how they were impacted through this program, made me realize that we did make a difference; we did achieve some wonderful goals throughout the year. 

And so, I do hope that these relationships and conversations continue, and am confident that they will. Some soldiers will visit us in LA in the fall as the final piece of the program. They will come to our turf and observe how we live our lives. By then, hopefully, we'll all be settled and comfortable in our new lives in Los Angeles. (For which I am getting incredibly excited)

Six Years?!?!?!

Finally, yesterday was my six (yes, SIX) year anniversary with my dear darling Jew Fro. Thanks to the suave skills of my dear friend Lisa, I received a beautiful bouquet from my beloved Fro this afternoon.  What a mensch, that Adam! I cannot wait to get back to California, back to family and friends and especially to he man who honors my deep love of fresh flowers.  (And 30 Rock) 

In two weeks I'll be home, and all this will be a distant memory. Thank goodness I've got a blog to keep the virtual momentos. 

Love,

Jaclyn

Nearing the end...

Today, May 2nd, marks exactly ten months since I arrived in Israel for the start of this journey. I de-planed the El Al jet sweaty and disoriented, Adam my love by my side. We arrived in Jerusalem several hours later, to an apartment I could not fathom living in, to a neighborhood filled with religious Jews, to a city that didn't look at all like I remembered it. I was an emotional wreck, overwhelmed and in shock and in total disbelief that I would actually be able to accomplish what was being asked of me. In those first few days, I walked around in a haze; my heart ached for Berkeley, for home, for normalcy. 

And now, I've spent just shy of one year here. I'm three weeks away from the finish line. So much has happened, I can't even process it. I've had the most incredible, challenging, and emotionally stirring adventure. I've pushed myself in every which way a person can be pushed. I've done the vast majority of it all without my beloved partner, with whom I belong, by my side. And I simply cannot believe it's coming to a close, or how much I will miss this life I've grown accostomed to. 

As we start to pack up our lives here in Jerusalem and look towards uncertain futures back in the states, I find myself torn. On the one hand, I've been ready to go home since January. You could not get me on that sixteen-hour nonstop flight faster. And yet on the other, I am so deeply saddened that this life will be completely over. End chapter. Book closed. Shut forever.

Never again will I have the opportunities I've had. Never again will I be able to live in Jerusalem - the tortured, divided, and beautiful epicenter of my religion. And never again will I have the privilege of learning in this particular environment or capacity. 

So, it's safe to say on this cloudy but warm Shabbat afternoon, as the weekend descends to the start of our penultimate school week, that I'm finding a part of myself tearing more and more in two with each passing day: the part of me that aches for home, and the part of me that will always be, strangely, connected to Jerusalem. 

-Jaclyn

Yamim Noraim shel Aviv

Yom ha Zikaron tekes (ceremony) at the Gymnasia Rehavia high school

If there was ever a day on which a person could get the most pure, undistilled picture of Israel, a day in which everything about who they are and why they are who they are was on full display, it would undoubtedly be Yom ha Zikaron. 

Yom ha Zikaron literally means "Day of the Memory," from the root זכר - remember. It is Israel's day of remembering its fallen soldiers - their heroism, their devotion to the state of Israel. In recent years it has also become a day to remember victims of terror attacks. Yom ha Zikaron is a day so unlike any other; a day where the entire country comes to a standstill and remembers, observes, and expresses its otherwise unexpressed emotions. 

Last week was Yom ha Shoah, the first of the three springtime Yamim Noraim - days of Awe. That particular day commemorates the Holocaust. Last Monday, I was fortunate to attend the national ceremony held at Yad Vashem. It was a tremendously moving experience, especially when you think about how intertwined the Holocaust and the inception of the state of Israel are. While the events of the Holocaust did not ultimately create Israel, they certainly expedited an already decades-long process to form a Jewish homeland. So the connection between the two is quite deep, and quite powerful.

Exactly one week later, the country ushers in Yom ha Zikaron. It begins with the most chilling sound one can hear - the sound of an air raid siren echoing throughout the country. It literally cuts right through you, and all you can do is stop and listen and bow your head. The same one goes off on Yom ha Shoah, but for some reason on Yom ha Zikaron it just felt different. On both days, you watch traffic come to a standstill, people get out of their cars, and stand at attention. I cannot imagine a more perfect picture of national unity and identity. 

Yom ha Zikaron is such a hugely significant day here in Israel. Every single citizen is connected to the army in some way, and nearly every single person has lost family or a friend, or both. So literally, the entire population of Israel is implicated in this day - no one is immune. 

Yesterday, after leading services at HUC, we made our way over to Gymnasia Rehavia, one of the oldest high schools in Jerusalem. On Yom ha Zikaron, the school puts together a ceremony for the community. There were speeches and songs, and then students recalled the names of the 138 graduates who have died while serving in the army, or in a terror attack. It was literally bone chilling to watch high school students - not even eighteen years old - carry out the whole thing. To think that they know in their minds, in just a few short years they themselves will be in the army and serving their country... well, it just blows my mind.

Graves at Har Herzl Cemetary

After the ceremony, Leslie and I headed over to Har Herzl Military Cemetary to observe - to see how things are over there on Yom ha Zikaron. It was absolutely breathtaking and moving. Every single grave had flowers, gifts, flags, money, poems, photographs - you name it. People had clearly come to pay their respects. Family and friends left multiple bouquets on single graves. Some people were still there, praying or reading or simply talking to the gravesite, as if that person were still there. 

The most recently added graves

Perhaps the most emotionally gut-wrenching part of the day was finding our way to the big blue tent. Underneath said tent were a greater collection of people and flowers than the other sections, so Leslie and I investigated. Turns out, this particular area is for the most recent deaths. There were soldiers buried there who were killed as recently as January '09, in Gaza. 

I cannot even express what I felt walking through that section. There were so many people - families and friends just sitting, crying, laughing, eating, remembering, recounting the people they lost not too long ago. It tore my heart out. Especially when the groups of soldiers - in full uniform, no less - came together to one grave to visit their friend and comrade. I just... I can't even fathom it. I can't compare it to anything. I can only sit back and recall the experience with pain and respect and tears. 

It's just so very Israel. Having had the experience of coordinating Parallel Lives this year, I feel I've gotten a much better understanding of the mandatory army service. I've come to see how much Tzahal - the IDF - impacts this entire country, creates and molds and shapes these people. Yom ha Zikaron makes it all coalesce into this one perfectly understandable little package -this major moment of clarity in which you understand, you get it. Of course, to translate what you get on a blog is much more difficult than one would imagine, so I'll just let the pictures do what they do. 

And just as the powers that be planned, as soon as Yom ha Zikaron closes out, the country welcomes Yom ha Atzma'ut, Israel's Independence Day and 61st birthday. 

Watch out! A young girl gets creamed (Shaving Cream-ed) on Ben Yehuda 

Transitioning immediately from somber to celebratory, the entire country turns into one big party for Yom ha Atzma'ut. Last night, we headed downtown to watch fireworks, hear live music, dance rikudei am, and join the masses of people in toasting Israel. It was actually a lot of fun, and it was quite thrilling to see Israelis out and about, laughing and having a great night. 

Then today, we did what all Israelis do on Yom ha Atzma'ut: Barbequed. 

Getting our BBQ on... 

Lisa and Deana in Yemin Moshe park

With the BFFs, Lisa and Leslie

All in all, while Yom ha Atzma'ut was such a stark contrast to Yom ha Zikaron, they were both really amazing days to experience. Had I arrived shortly before these Yamim Nora'im last year, I would not have understood them at all. Having been here for nearly eleven months, I just get it. I understand how it all works and comes together as one communal, national thing. 

I'm starting to get tremendously nostalgic and sad about the idea that in 24 short days, I'll be back in California for good. I'm ready, I'm not ready, I'm happy, I'm devastated. I can't believe this adventure is coming to a close. And at the same time, it has been one hell of a year! 

These coming days and weeks will undoubtedly be filled with many blog-worthy moments. I'll do my best to keep the blogosphere in the loop, and will see you all in person very soon. 

Love from Jlem,

Jaclyn

Petra, Spectacular Petra

The Treasury of Petra, as viewed through the Siq (narrow canyon)

There are times in our lives when we experience something so incredible, so unique, so breathtaking, that it resonates within us and stays there forever. 

Petra, the ancient city carved into rose-colored stone in the middle of Jordan, is one of those somethings.

I was incredibly fortunate to visit Petra this past weekend, during the final days of my Pesach vacation. I was also incredibly fortunate to have a cousin living in Aqaba, the resort town of Jordan that lies just across the Red Sea from Eilat. So Ari, Lauren, and myself went down to Eilat on Thursday, crossed the border between Israel and Jordan on foot, and spent the weekend at Cousin Rich's swanky apartment in the 5th district of Aqaba. Early Friday morning we were picked up by a lovely taxi driver named Hatem, and he drove us to Petra for our five-hour experience. We returned for the remainder of an awesome weekend in Aqaba. 

With Ari and Lauren in front of the Treasury. 

Petra, you may recognize, is the facade of the final scene of "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade," one of my favorite movies. Whether from that movie, or from simple promotion by the Jordanian government (who clearly regard Petra as the jewel in their country's crown) it has become the second most-visited "new wonder of the world," just behind the Great Wall of China.

There are few words to adequately describe Petra, and the pictures just can't do it justice. It's such a spectacular place, and there is nothing else like it on earth. It's an ancient city entirely carved out of rock! It's massive! There is so much to see and do and experience, and you climb up onto these structures and you hike up mountains and run and play and it's just so, so incredible. The setting of it all is majestic - you are literally in the middle of the Jordanian desert, with red sand and rock everywhere. The rock itself is stunning, and it changes color throughout the day as the light hits it appropriately. 

The Siq, a narrow canyon that you walk through to enter the city, in the early morning...

And again in the early afternoon.

There was something quite magical and unbelivable about Petra. It almost seemed like a fairy tale. You just can't comprehend how something could be created like that so many years ago. The story goes that the city was created by the Nabateans thousands of years ago, and was a stronghold in the Arava valley. The Negev desert, which I visited with school a few weeks ago, lies on the other side of the hills. 

More Petra prettiness

Despite its location in what was once the Biblical Land, Petra has no religious significance anymore. Its sites were clearly dedicated to religious worship, however. The Monastery, which is up a steep hike I simply could not do (legs are still healing) is a real reminder of the centrality of worship back in ancient times.

Practicing my air guitar on what I deemed to be the Stairway to Heaven

The path leading to the High Place of Sacrifice 

Petra is extraordinary. Even though we were there five hours, I could have easily gone back and done some further exploring. However, it's not easy! It's a lot of moving up and down and hiking in the hot desert sun. But it's just incredible. You're surrounded by people from all over the world - you literally hear dozens of languages around you as you walk through the park. You're seeing things with your own eyes you could never, ever see anywhere else. It just blows you away. I am SO glad we got to go - that we made it happen with only five weeks to go in the program. I feel privileged to have said I visited Petra. 

With Cousin Rich on the balcony of his Aqaba apartment, overlooking the Red Sea

It was also very cool to visit Aqaba, a city in a major period of transition. It is quickly becoming a major resort town, as it is the only city in all of Jordan on the Sea. There is a tremendous amount of real estate invested in its growth. My cousin Rich has lived there for about a year and a half, doing some form of community development. He works with local residents and helps build structures for organization and local leadership. It's actually quite inspiring to hear what he's doing, and to meet the people who he works with and knows. And it was great to see him and spend time with him. 

Crossing the border was a hoot and a half. It's the most relaxed, strange, bizarre experience. You pay your shekels, get your passport stamped by Israel, walk 150 yards of "No-Man's Land," and then you're in Jordan! It's the funniest thing. Slash... kind of creepy. I wish I had taken pictures of the absurdity of it all, but I don't think it's legal to do that. Regardless, just picture something really funny, me laughing while walking between the two countries and sweating, because it was really, really hot. 

Once you get into Aqaba, you really see that you're just not in Israel anymore. It's very much a moderate Arab country. Everything is in Arabic and English, people are dressed conservatively and traditionally, and there's just a totally different feeling there. Aqaba itself felt like a strange mixture of touristy and local-y. We went from dinner in an uppity touristy area to fruit shakes (absolutely delicious fresh fruit) in a very local hubbub-y area. The switch was very apparent. It was fascinating to see how people in Aqaba live there lives. They were all very nice, polite, and interesting. Their approach to women, however, was a little unsettling. I felt very much aware of my femininity while there. You just get treated differently, talked to differently, and viewed differently. It's hard to describe why. It actually made me miss Israel a little bit. 

All in all, the whole weekend was a great success. We had a fantastic time, and all the details seemed to work out flawlessly. We made it back to Jerusalem late last night, in time to start school again this morning. It's now five weeks 'til the finish line, and I can't believe it. The time has come to say goodbye, but it won't be an easy goodbye to say. At all. 

Until next time, 

Jaclyn

Pesach with the Parents

I just spent the most lovely ten days with my two loving parents, Lenny and Jill. They arrived in Tel Aviv on April 4 and stayed through the first night of Pesach here in Jerusalem. Then on April 9, we headed to the Greek island of Crete for five days of sun, fun, and adventure! They're headed back to the states right now, and in 40 days I will join them back in Los Angeles permanently. The countdown has begun!

Hanging out in Ein Kerem, a quaint town in West Jerusalem

What can I say about my parents? They're both incredibly good, funny human beings. They love me and my brother to pieces. They are so incredibly supportive, and both came separately to visit me in Israel this year. They're just wonderful people, and I adore them. As nutty as we are, we have a great time together.

Mom and I on Mamilla Mall, before purchasing a new (professional) tallit for me!

Given that this was their third time in Israel, we had a pretty mellow time exploring Jerusalem. The real fun came when we did a day trip to the north. Our destination was Tzfat, and the other highlights included Rosh Pina for lunch and Zichron Ya'akov for dinner. Each time I head up to the Galilee, I'm reminded of two things: 1) how strikingly beautiful Israel can be, and 2) how much Israel looks like Southern California. 

In the Tzfat Artist Colony 

My parents had never been to Tzfat, so it was cool for them to wander the streets and visit the artist colony. The weather was perfect; warm, but not hot. Clear as crystal. The views were stunning, and it was very relaxing to be out of the Pesach-infused chaos of Jerusalem. And while Rosh Pina is a bit of a snoozefest, Zichron Ya'akov is a fantastic little area with the best pedestrian mall in the country. There's lots of good, cute shops and delicious eateries. The people are mellow and friendly, it's near the ocean, and it's a great place to go. The last time I was there was on our first overnight tiyul back in September; just before High Holidays, right after the start of fall semester. It's shocking to realize how far we've come; how the end is drawing near on this Israel adventure. 

With our proper Pesach placecards 

The holiday of Pesach descended upon Jerusalem like the Angel of Death searching for the Egyptian firstborn. I say that in the most positive way possible! In reality, Jerusalem morphed into the happiest, prettiest little place as people - religious and otherwise - ran around town preparing themselves for the holiday. People in our neighborhood burned their chametz (bread products) and raided the aisles of Supersol for Kosher-l'-Pesach goods. Tourists came from everywhere - Jews and non-Jews alike - and turned the town into a veritable Jewish Disneyland. It was actually a really good feeling, as opposed to other holidays where the mood turns totally somber and people get really, really irritable.

The supermarkets covered the vast majority of their goods that weren't Kosher for Pesach, and have remained that way since the holiday began. Everywhere you look, people are adapting their lifestyle to fit the chag, right on down to my favorite sushi restaurant completely changing its menu for the week of Pesach. It's another example of how fascinating this country can be; how different it is to be in a place where the entire country is mandated to live by a certain Jewish code. Perhaps because I'm looking ahead at my very near departure, it doesn't bother me as much as it did in the past. Instead of rejecting the religious imposition, I'm actually welcoming it and examining it and finding some interesting tidbits in it. Israel, for all its 'ish, never ceases to fascinate me, that's for sure. 

Just in case we forgot each others' names after ten months together!

For the first night of Pesach, my dear friends Meredith and Joel coordinated a communal seder at Meredith and Lisa's apartment. Both Meredith and Joel were hosting their parental visitors, so with my mom and dad, plus Lisa, Jimmy, Ari, and Lisa's friend Micah, we came together to celebrate the holiday together. It was a mish-mash, everyone-takes-a-role seder, and it was great fun. The food was delicious, the room looked great, and it was really special to celebrate our freedom in Jerusalem. After so many years of shouting "next year in Jerusalem!" at my Passover seders, it was truly special, albeit unique, to be here for the holiday. 

Welcome to Greece!

Early the next morning we headed to the island of Crete on holiday. We knew very little about it, except that my trusted travel agent Brigitte could get us a great package deal. So, we went armed with a couple travel books and Lisa and Leslie's recommendations. (They went in August) It turned out to be a fantastic, interesting, beautiful place, and I'm glad we went together. 

Crete is a massive island. Its capital city, Heraklion, is just as modern as bustling as San Francisco. It had all the necessities of any major city: trendy, cosmopolitan bars and restaurants, high-style and haute couture shops, and plenty of things to keep one busy. We didn't stay in Heraklion, but just the thought that we could have access to the modern necessities of a major city kind of shook me. I mean, it's an island in the middle of the Mediterranean. Who knew? There's also the second-largest city, Chania, which is both beautiful and has a rich history. Crete itself has an amazing history.

Mom and Dad lunching in the pretty city of Chania

In Chania, near Eitz Chayim, the restored 15th-century synagogue that served the Jews of Crete up until the Holocaust. 

A plaque in Eitz Chayim bearing the names of Chania's Jews who died when their deportation ship was accidentally sunk by a British submarine in 1944

We explored Heraklion and Chania, plus the other towns of Rethymnon and Agios Nikolaus, and a small village called Archaneus. We visited Knossos Palace, which was supposedly the seat of Minoan culture 4,000 years ago. We ate delicious, fresh, presumably local food. We sat on the beach. We had a ridiculously zippy Fiat rental car. (I still maintain that they're really "Firts," not "Fiats") We just had a really fun time together, the three of us. It was a wonderful time. BUT it was truly incomplete without my brother Andrew. We really missed him! (And it would have been extra-awesome to have Adam there, too) 

Mom and me with the town of Agios Nikolas behind us 

What really struck us about Crete was both its natural beauty and the character of the people. The island obviously has beautiful beaches, but there's a tremendous series of mountain ranges, even some peaks still with snow on them. As we drove across the island, we were each struck by the quaint charm and beauty of the Mediterranean hillsides and the cute little villages. It was so peaceful and calming. 

Dad, Mom, Me, and my giant sun hat in Agios Nikolas 

And the people - I cannot say enough about how nice they are. I think that altogether, Crete survives on its tourism. As this was literally the first weekend of the summer season, a lot of hotels and restaurants were still closed and boarded up for winter. Everyone who we interacted with was so happy to have visitors, and so welcoming, accomodating, and happy to see us. Crete was a lot like Israel in its live-and-let-live/whatever-goes attitude, but in a much more mellow and relaxed way. We loved it, and I encourage everyone to go visit Greece!

A final dinner at Zuni in Jerusalem

As we landed at Ben Gurion yesterday my heart started to swell as I realized the next time I go to that airport, it will be my last. The adventure is coming to a close, and I'm quite emotional about it. Similar to the way I felt as we bid farewell to Israel upon the conclusion of our NFTY trip back in 2000, a part of me feels at a tremendous loss over leaving so soon. While I constantly remind the people I love how mentally "done" I am, and how quickly I want to get back to my old life, I think that deep down, the magnet effect of Israel has got me good. I'm attached to this country, for better or for worse. These past ten months have been incredible; an amazing learning experience for me. The people I care about here, my teachers and my studies; they all mean so much to me. I can't believe that in less than six weeks, it will all be over. 

With a little bit of a glisten in my eye, I bid you farewell... but only for the time being. The Pesach adventure continues on Thursday when Ari, Lauren and myself head down to Eilat and Petra for, presumably, the final travel hurrah of the year. 

Many hugs and Chag Sameach, 

Jaclyn

Desert Rosenbloom

Here's a confession: I love the desert. 

It's kind of an unexpected thing, I know. I don't seem like the desolate-landscape-sand-and-sun-and-extreme-temperatures type. But I really do love the solitude and beauty of the desert, and that stems from my first encounter with the Negev on my NFTY trip back in 2000. I vividly remember sleeping out under the stars - the millions of bright, beautiful stars - and hiking through a haunting, candlelit canyon at night. It was peaceful and quiet and gorgeous, and I loved it.

This past weekend HUC took us on a tiyul to the Negev, and it was fabulous. It came right on the heels of my fantastic French adventure, so I basically got one entire week off, and that is always awesome. 

Photo Credit: Sir Ari Lorge 

We stayed on Kibbutz Yahel, which is associated with the Reform Movement. It's a great, mellow place. The people who live there now mostly came to Israel from the States back in the 1970s - when the Kibbutzim really hit their stride. Many of them were active in NFTY and their own Jewish communities, and decided that life was more enticing on a kibbutz in the middle of the desert. They were all good-hearted people, if just a little bit strange. Life just moves slower on Kibbutzim, and Kibbutzniks are a special, unique breed. (In a good way)  

In the Kibbutz Lotan organic garden.

We also had the pleasure of visiting Kibbutz Lotan, just down the road from Yahel. It's a truly unique place, and their entire emphasis is on sustainable eco-living. They use water-free toilets and live in green-friendly bio-domes. They have a Green Apprenticeship program, which teaches people how to live green-er, and take better care of the Earth. It's really a fascinating thing to observe and visit, though I don't think I could ever live there. 

Solar-powered oven!

At Kibbutz Lotan, we were given a presentation by a certain Kibbutz member who grew up in California and went to Berkeley. I think he was attempting a campaign for making aliyah, but his entire speech came off insulting and condascending. I looked around and realized that almost every single face was unified in a look of both disgust and "hell-no-I-won't!" It was interesting to observe how we each reacted and recoiled both to the idea of totally uprooting ourselves and committing to a permanent life in Israel, or even in the desert. However, after the presentation we all agreed we have the utmost respect for people who can sustain that kind of lifestyle. I guess that's where the line lays: if you can come away with a degree of respect, yet know it's not for you, I guess that's pretty mature. Or maybe just progressive.

A little eco-dome hut. 

All in all, it was a great tiyul. It was fascinating to visit the Kibbutzim, it was incredible to see what they're doing down there, and it was so relaxing to just veg out in the desert. I'm glad I went, I'm glad the weather was awesome, and I'm glad to share the pictures with you. 

Somehow, I've reached the point in my journey where the parents have arrived, Pesach is around the corner, and I am looking ahead at seven weeks left in Israel. It's nothing! I cannot believe it. It feels like only yesterday I first arrived in this apartment and freaked out about this new life in Israel. Yet it also feels like nine years have passed, aging me to the point of no return. It's great to have the parents here again, together, and I look forward to five days in Greece next week. Not to mention my first (and presumably, only) time in Israel for Pesach. I'm excited. 

Lots of Love, and Chag Sameach!

Jaclyn

Paris, je t'aime!

Mon Petit Ami avec Moi a Paris! 

Ah, Paris. It's everything a city should be. Breathtakingly beautiful, romantic, cultured, diverse, and oh-so-delicious. I visited Paris with my family in 1997 following our ten-day trip to Israel. And I was incredibly fortunate to return this past weekend for a rendezvous with my beloved Adam. The trip came at precisely the right time. My feet have finally started to heal properly, and I was able to walk around Paris with almost no issue. (Had to sit down and rest from time to time, like all eighty-year-old women) And, it was just the most incredible feeling to be wrapped in the love of my Adam, having not seen him since my January trip home two months ago. I adore the man, I love traveling with him, and it was so delightful to just be together in the City of Lights. 

It was an incredible four days, though they were simply not enough. I don't think a lifetime would be enough to explore Paris. But we definitely got a hefty dose of France, and I will attempt to summarize the adventure through the following pictures.

Our trip began at the Eiffel Tower, where all decent Paris trips should. The Eiffel Tower is every bit as romantic and captivating as people say. It's really an amazing thing to behold, and to kiss in front of. 

On our final day, Adam convinced me to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. While the view was intense, my fear of heights was almost more so. So I spent a considerable amount of time grasping the rail and breathing heavily. Still, it was pretty gorgeous! 

The Seine, which splits Paris in two (Left and Right bank, respectively) is a sight to behold. Almost every single building along the river is ornate and gorgeous, and espouses Parisian architecture. 

 Here's the River again, postcard-pretty. 

The Paris Opera, which, I believe, is the setting for Phantom of the Opera, of which I am not a fan. Still, from the outside, the Opera is freaking beautiful. 

This is the Basilica de Sacre-Coeur in Montmarte. It's a really beautiful hilltop church that looks out over all of Paris. It's in an area that's very quaint and lovely and special. We ate dinner there on our final night, at a little hole-in-the-wall called Jardin d'en Face. It was delicious! 

This, dear friends, is Notre Dame Cathedral. It's impressive, it's built on an island, and the interior looks like every single European church we've ever visited in our travels. Still, the exterior is pretty awesome, and the famous gargoyles are terrifying. 

My partner Adam manages to turn his jumping pictures into works of art. Here, he's jumping at the Musee d'Orangerie, a lovely little museum near the Louvre (which we didn't visit, because it's boring and overrated)

However, you bet we took a picture in front of the Louvre! For the memories, y'all. 

Trying to get in on the romance with a statue in front of L'Orangerie. 

This is the Musee D'Orsay, one of the coolest and most fantastic museums I've ever visited. It's housed in a former train station, has dozens of different levels, and lots of fantastic art from all different genres. Definitely the cultural highlight of our visit! 

Each time Adam and I visit a foreign country, there's inevitably at least one long-lost cousin thrice removed who Adam's mom has been in contact with for years. It's uber impressive! Paris was no exception: here we are with Adrian Bondy, a mathematics professor at the University of Paris, connected to Adam on his mother's side. 

Here we are at the Arc de Triomphe at night. I don't know the history of the Arc, and am too lazy to Wikipedia it. So if you're curious, take yourself over there. 

This is the Metro, Paris' intricate and incredible subway system. We basically took it everywhere we went, and it was really convenient and easy to use. But what we really liked was observing all the different kinds of Parisians that live in the city. Taking the Metro proved that Paris is an incredibly diverse city: ethnically, financially, stylistically. The subway provides an excellent view on the culture you're visiting. 

Adam and his cheese! The fromage flowed like water at every restaurant we went to. Here's Adam at Les Ancetres Galouises, a restaurant on the Ile-de-St.-Louis that gave us one of the most incredible meals of our lives. And just before the dessert course came our cheese, making Adam a happy camper! Too bad I'm just not a cheese fan. But thank goodness for Lactaid!! (For Adam's benefit, and for mine!) 

So that was our adventure! It was truly memorable. I'm glad we could share it with all of you. In the next couple of weeks, I'll be finishing up a ton of work, celebrating Pesach with my parents in Israel, then heading with them to Greece for five days, and culminating the travel extravaganza with a trip to Petra, Jordan. It's a definitive highlight as I look to these final two months in Israel.

Until the next adventure, I'm sending all my love from Jlem. 

Jaclyn