Saturday, December 20, 2008

The Holiday Spirit

שלום לכולם (Hello Everyone!)

This past week has been busy, productive, and positively COLD! It's suddenly winter here in Jerusalem, making me ever so grateful for the central heating in our apartment. The jackets and boots have come out in full force, just in time for Hanukkah next week.

The holiday season is fascinating here in Jerusalem. You know in your head it's the holidays, but you don't see a single Christmas tree. You listen for the sound of sleighbells, but hear only Hebrew. You walk through stores and restaurants expecting green and red regalia, but see only the usual chaotic mess. On the flipside, menorahs and Hanukkah decorations are sprouting up everywhere. And tomorrow when I buy my Hanukkah gear, I'll hopefully find some "Nes, Gadol, Hayah, POH" dreidels! (Denoting that a great miracle happened here, not "there!")

It's really quite cool, and yet strangely jarring, to only see one holiday represented in the bubble in which you live. To be greeted and left the same way by strangers - "Chag Hanukkah Sameach," doesn't faze me in the moment; yet when you think about it, you realize that everyone here speaks a collective Jewish language. Unlike at home, where you hear "Merry Christmas" and , if you're lucky, "Happy Holidays," here in Jerusalem only one holiday matters: Hanukkah. I'll be sure to blog about the various goings-on of the holiday here in Jlem next week.

This coming week is our last full week of school; the following week is pre-finals (complete with a New Years Eve prom) the week after is finals, and then I'll be home in Los Angeles with my beautiful family and Adam! I'm so excited, I can practically taste it. And quite honestly, this semester has been so long and so challenging (mono, anyone?) that I just want it to be over. It needs to be done! I hope I learned something, but it doesn't matter if I get an A; just that I pass. Words to live by, as written by J.Fro.

In other news, last night I had my one and only assigned service of the year. Each rabbinical student has to lead services once and give a d'var Torah once; I give my d'var in early February on Beshallach, the Song of the Sea. After you lead services, you get scrutinized and criticized up the wazoo by faculty, and students are invited to tear you apart, too. While some of the comments are helpful and productive, it's mostly an amusing forum where people get to channel their personal anxieties and frustrations with prayer onto those who lead it; the "reviews" tend to become big bitchfests. Our review is Tuesday, and I can't wait! Regardless of what is said, I'm proud of myself, and that's what matters.

Leading Kabbalat Shabbat with my roommate Lauren was a wonderful, positive experience. It was my first time ever being in the rabbinical role, though we sang almost everything together. I felt we crafted a beautiful service; people seemed really into it, enjoying themselves and praying along with us. Lauren is a supremely talented human being, and we worked off each other really well. She inspired my iyunnim, (otherwise known as the little nuggets of rabbinical wisdom in between songs) and I helped advise her on the music. All in all, it was wonderful.

It felt good - really good - to stand up there on the pulpit again. I feel comfortable up there, and not because I want to be the center of attention or the star of the show. I truly enjoy leading others in prayer. I love smiling into a congregation and seeing them smile back. To know that you are working hard to provide yourself and others with a meaningful Shabbat experience just fills the soul with nachas; it feels damn good. And it felt really awesome to finally show the HUC community what brought me to this school in the first place.

The theme of last night's service was light; specifically, bringing your light into the darkness around you. As we look to Hanukkah next week, we also see the official start of winter. As the days grow colder and the nights get darker, we light the candles of Hanukkah against that darkness, and bring our own illumination into the world.

To each of you who celebrates the holidays in your own unique way - may it be a beautiful season of warmth, togetherness, and illumination.

Missing you all,
Jaclyn

Sunday, December 7, 2008

All's well in Jerusalem

Shalom, friends.

Things are going well here in Jerusalem. This past week was another busy one, but as I finished the bulk of my midterms I'm feeling considerably less stressed. The weather has been beautiful, if a bit chilly. And as more time elapses, I'm starting to feel increasingly more at home here in the Holy Land. It's something I never thought I would say, let alone write on my blog. But perhaps it just takes a few months to become comfortable in one's new surroundings.

I passed the five month mark last week, and with that transition came a strange new feeling. As I began to think about my eventual return to California, some strong tinges of sadness came with it. I realized that this adventure will soon come to an end, and I'm just not ready for that. Feeling that; sensing a strange new sensation of premature regret, made me realize that I like this place more than I let on. Despite the complaints, I really am enjoying my time here. So in the spirit of positive thinking, I'm going to list some of the unique things I've come to love and adore.

1) Toilet Paper Everywhere - Every bathroom stall in this country has an overabundance of toilet paper. Every time you look at the dispenser and the roll's out, not to fear! Look behind you and there are seven more rolls, just waiting to be used. I hope American establishments take note of this, and start stocking up immediately. Especially in the ladies' loo.

2) The Jerusalem Light - Jerusalem is a beautiful city. I didn't realize it so much over the summer, because it was so hot and smoggy the only thing I found beautiful was a cold shower at the end of the day. But especially in the late afternoon, as the sun sets in the west, this city truly shines. I've never seen a city look as romantic in the setting sun as Jerusalem.

3) Makolets - The makolet is the Israeli version of a mini-market. Only, at these mini-markets, that's where you usually find a treasure trove of American products. The Feel Box on Azza (a truly fitting name) is a particular favorite. From salad dressings to peanut-butter stuffed pretzels, the Makolet has it all. It's also a cheap and quick alternative to SuperSol (aka Superslow) which, sadly, did not make the top-10 list.

4) Timol Shilshom - A famous Israeli cafe/bookstore, it has the most delicious Friday morning brunch spread ever. Every item is delicious and fresh. And the setting is so authentic; so old-school, candle-lit library poetry reading-esque, that I just can't get enough. Famous Israeli writers like Amos Oz have penned some of their best right there in Timol. And future rabbis like Jaclyn Fromer have eaten their fair share of spinach lasagna and freshly-baked challah there, too.

5) Fresh Fruit Juice - The fresh fruit stand is not a uniquely Israel thing. But the taste of a freshly squeezed Israeli orange or rimon (pomegranate) in juice form is simply divine. I think the juices just taste better here, for whatever reason. They're delicious. Amazing, Cheap. And all over the city.

6) The Hills are Alive - Jerusalem is a hilly city. Make no qualms about it. And those hills have given me the tightest quad muscles I've had in a long, long time. But the hills also provide for some beautiful, beautiful views. Climbing to the top of one and looking out over the valleys of Jlem, I feel alive, spiritual, and awake. These hills are inspiring.

7) The Roundup - Israeli currency is the Shekel. The shekel's equivalent of "coinage" is the Agora. If something costs 10.60 NIS, that means it's 10 shekels and 60 agorot. When you buy something, take a cab, whatever, sometimes the agorot disappear. You can get away with not paying it, or paying it, whatever. But sometimes Israelis also take away agorot from your final purchase at Supersol, too. It's a funny thing to me, and continues to crack me up that money is such a relative thing here. Agorot, no agorot... let's call the whole thing off.

8) School - I can't not include this one in the list; it's become my home! My campus is great, and I love seeing friendly faces every morning, noon, and night. The friends I've made are wonderful, and seeing them each day makes school feel like a safe and happy place. Plus, I feel like I'm learning and expanding my mind there, even though sometimes I leave with a pile of mush for a brain. But HUC is the best, and I love that I'm growing as a person within their walls.

9) Jewish Diversity - I was going to write "diversity" but the truth is, it's Jewish Diversity that really resonates here. There are all different kinds of Jews in this country. And it's really fascinating to watch them all interact. Perhaps I've been here so long, I don't only focus on the Orthodox-are-assholes thing anymore. Instead, I see the many kinds of Jews that live and breathe, work and play here. Seeing them as a majority instead of a minority is really and truly amazing, and it adds to my internal conversation about the importance of supporting Israel.

10) The I.D.F. - Israeli Defense Force - Since August, I have co-coordinated a program called Parallel Lives, which brings together a group of soldiers from an elite unit of the IDF with a small group of HUC students. We have activities and retreats together and learn about each others' lives. It's really been an amazing thing to take part in, mostly because my prior understanding of the IDF was so poor. But through this program, I have really gotten to see a different side of Israeli society, and have spent time with an amazing group of young soldiers. Through it, I have cultivated an understanding of the mandatory army service all Israelis are obligated to complete between the ages of 18 and 22, and come to see it as one of the most unique and poignant parts of Israeli life.

As this past weekend was our Parallel Lives Shabbaton, I thought I'd end my post by including some words and pictures from the weekend.

The Parallel Lives group: students and soldiers

Mixing at our first event: Kehillot Shelanu (our communities)

The soldiers getting goofy on the Tayelet: (from left) Miki, Rona, Mika, Darren, Shlomi, Ophir, Evi, Gili, and Adam.

The weekend was great, and for all the reasons I thought it would be. Students and soldiers interacted on a totally different level than our past few events. They saw each others' backgrounds and communities and who they really are. They went deeper and dug into tough questions, seeing how we are alike and how we differ. And as for me, I got a much stronger glimpse into the world of Tzahal, the Israeli army. Through all the discussion topics, and through the conversations over meals and in passing, I see these mature nineteen and twenty-year-olds as superb human beings, dedicated to their country and its survival. They depend on each other and on their leaders to do the right thing, keep them safe, and alive. And in turn, they defend the Israeli homeland. Their way of talking about Israel is both honest and inspiring, and I look forward to the continued relationships developing.

Until next time,

Jaclyn