Yamim Noraim shel Aviv

Yom ha Zikaron tekes (ceremony) at the Gymnasia Rehavia high school

If there was ever a day on which a person could get the most pure, undistilled picture of Israel, a day in which everything about who they are and why they are who they are was on full display, it would undoubtedly be Yom ha Zikaron. 

Yom ha Zikaron literally means "Day of the Memory," from the root זכר - remember. It is Israel's day of remembering its fallen soldiers - their heroism, their devotion to the state of Israel. In recent years it has also become a day to remember victims of terror attacks. Yom ha Zikaron is a day so unlike any other; a day where the entire country comes to a standstill and remembers, observes, and expresses its otherwise unexpressed emotions. 

Last week was Yom ha Shoah, the first of the three springtime Yamim Noraim - days of Awe. That particular day commemorates the Holocaust. Last Monday, I was fortunate to attend the national ceremony held at Yad Vashem. It was a tremendously moving experience, especially when you think about how intertwined the Holocaust and the inception of the state of Israel are. While the events of the Holocaust did not ultimately create Israel, they certainly expedited an already decades-long process to form a Jewish homeland. So the connection between the two is quite deep, and quite powerful.

Exactly one week later, the country ushers in Yom ha Zikaron. It begins with the most chilling sound one can hear - the sound of an air raid siren echoing throughout the country. It literally cuts right through you, and all you can do is stop and listen and bow your head. The same one goes off on Yom ha Shoah, but for some reason on Yom ha Zikaron it just felt different. On both days, you watch traffic come to a standstill, people get out of their cars, and stand at attention. I cannot imagine a more perfect picture of national unity and identity. 

Yom ha Zikaron is such a hugely significant day here in Israel. Every single citizen is connected to the army in some way, and nearly every single person has lost family or a friend, or both. So literally, the entire population of Israel is implicated in this day - no one is immune. 

Yesterday, after leading services at HUC, we made our way over to Gymnasia Rehavia, one of the oldest high schools in Jerusalem. On Yom ha Zikaron, the school puts together a ceremony for the community. There were speeches and songs, and then students recalled the names of the 138 graduates who have died while serving in the army, or in a terror attack. It was literally bone chilling to watch high school students - not even eighteen years old - carry out the whole thing. To think that they know in their minds, in just a few short years they themselves will be in the army and serving their country... well, it just blows my mind.

Graves at Har Herzl Cemetary

After the ceremony, Leslie and I headed over to Har Herzl Military Cemetary to observe - to see how things are over there on Yom ha Zikaron. It was absolutely breathtaking and moving. Every single grave had flowers, gifts, flags, money, poems, photographs - you name it. People had clearly come to pay their respects. Family and friends left multiple bouquets on single graves. Some people were still there, praying or reading or simply talking to the gravesite, as if that person were still there. 

The most recently added graves

Perhaps the most emotionally gut-wrenching part of the day was finding our way to the big blue tent. Underneath said tent were a greater collection of people and flowers than the other sections, so Leslie and I investigated. Turns out, this particular area is for the most recent deaths. There were soldiers buried there who were killed as recently as January '09, in Gaza. 

I cannot even express what I felt walking through that section. There were so many people - families and friends just sitting, crying, laughing, eating, remembering, recounting the people they lost not too long ago. It tore my heart out. Especially when the groups of soldiers - in full uniform, no less - came together to one grave to visit their friend and comrade. I just... I can't even fathom it. I can't compare it to anything. I can only sit back and recall the experience with pain and respect and tears. 

It's just so very Israel. Having had the experience of coordinating Parallel Lives this year, I feel I've gotten a much better understanding of the mandatory army service. I've come to see how much Tzahal - the IDF - impacts this entire country, creates and molds and shapes these people. Yom ha Zikaron makes it all coalesce into this one perfectly understandable little package -this major moment of clarity in which you understand, you get it. Of course, to translate what you get on a blog is much more difficult than one would imagine, so I'll just let the pictures do what they do. 

And just as the powers that be planned, as soon as Yom ha Zikaron closes out, the country welcomes Yom ha Atzma'ut, Israel's Independence Day and 61st birthday. 

Watch out! A young girl gets creamed (Shaving Cream-ed) on Ben Yehuda 

Transitioning immediately from somber to celebratory, the entire country turns into one big party for Yom ha Atzma'ut. Last night, we headed downtown to watch fireworks, hear live music, dance rikudei am, and join the masses of people in toasting Israel. It was actually a lot of fun, and it was quite thrilling to see Israelis out and about, laughing and having a great night. 

Then today, we did what all Israelis do on Yom ha Atzma'ut: Barbequed. 

Getting our BBQ on... 

Lisa and Deana in Yemin Moshe park

With the BFFs, Lisa and Leslie

All in all, while Yom ha Atzma'ut was such a stark contrast to Yom ha Zikaron, they were both really amazing days to experience. Had I arrived shortly before these Yamim Nora'im last year, I would not have understood them at all. Having been here for nearly eleven months, I just get it. I understand how it all works and comes together as one communal, national thing. 

I'm starting to get tremendously nostalgic and sad about the idea that in 24 short days, I'll be back in California for good. I'm ready, I'm not ready, I'm happy, I'm devastated. I can't believe this adventure is coming to a close. And at the same time, it has been one hell of a year! 

These coming days and weeks will undoubtedly be filled with many blog-worthy moments. I'll do my best to keep the blogosphere in the loop, and will see you all in person very soon. 

Love from Jlem,

Jaclyn