Thursday, September 4, 2008

Istanbul (not Constantinople)

Istanbul is truly one of the most amazing, fascinating, interesting, and beautiful cities I have ever been fortunate enough to visit. Adam and I just returned from five days in the city formerly known as Constantinople, and it was a truly wonderful journey. So wonderful, in fact, that I am currently downloading almost 500 pictures from our trip onto my computer.

When we first decided to spend our hard-earned shekels up north in Turkey, we were shocked by the reactions we received from friends and family. "Are you sure you want to go?" they pleaded. "Istanbul is NOT safe." "It's a Muslim country, guys. You'll stick out like sore thumbs." Best of all, a member of Adam's family who we love dearly suggested he shave his head, for fear that his treasured Jew Fro would get us mugged, kidnapped, or worse.

Perhaps Adam and I have both shed some paranoid skin since arriving in Israel (which, let's not forget, is still on the United States Travel Advisory watch list) or maybe we just ignored everyone's negative comments. Somehow our desire to explore the world won out over the tremendous fear imposed upon us. Baruch Hashem to that.

Istanbul is a beautiful, modern, bustling city. Turks are unbelievably kind and gracious. About 95% of the people we saw wore tank tops and jeans; very few women wore full burkas. Walking through the city streets, you really sense how alike we all are. Their human needs are our human needs: live life, enjoy the company of friends, celebrate holidays, provide for our families, and love one another. Adam and I never once felt unsafe, or in danger, or even uncomfortable. All the hype about terrorism and political unrest? Phooey. We didn't catch a single whiff of it.

From these five days, we garnered an understanding of a culture totally different from our own. We saw how Istanbullus live, and it fascinated us. We ate how Istanbullus eat, and it filled our hungry tummies. (And upset them a little, to be fair) We marveled at the vast number of sights to see in Istanbul, from the soaring minarets of the many mosques to the expansive grounds of their two gorgeous palaces. We saw religious sites, historical sites, and sites so awesome we could barely believe our sight.

We even celebrated Ramadan as Istanbullus do! (Minus the fasting) It began the evening we got there, and lasts until the end of the month. On Tuesday after sundown, we went to a Ramadan festival in the Old City. Suffice to say, it was awesome. Thousands of people and dozens of booths selling food, candy, ice cream, tchotckes, etc. The vibe was so positive. It was just so fun to partake in, and it shed light on a different side of human interaction we might not have seen at another time of year.

Perhaps the most fantastic part of being in Istanbul was simply driving around in the taxi cabs, and on the double-decker tour bus. Each time we entered a moving vehicle, the radio was blasting uniquely Turkish music. And it was just fascinating, exotic, and all-around stirring music to listen to. Our vision and perception of the city came with a soundtrack, and we loved it.

All in all, it was a simply marvelous experience. I could not get enough. I'm sad to be back, but eager to start the school year this Sunday. It's shocking to me that our fall semester, and our core rabbinic classes, are finally starting. It's exciting to be at the threshold of something new, knowing it will be compelling and soul-stirring. I can't wait!

Now for some pictures:


Welcome to Istanbul! This is the view from Galata Tower, situated on the Golden Horn side of the city. Behold the Bosphorus river, which divides European Istanbul from Asian Istanbul. Istanbul is the only city in the world which straddles two continents.

Adam nearly flies above the Blue Mosque, also known as Sultan Ahmed Mosque, in the Old City. The "Blue" factor pertains to the tiles inside, which, strangely, are not all blue.

The Blue Mosque at night, during the Ramadan Festival in the Old City. In Turkish, Ramadan is spelled "Ramazan." We're pretty sure the sign says: "This is a mosque, and it is Ramazan."

Inside the Blue Mosque. Notice my ultra-chic head covering.

In the Old City, after our tour of the Blue Mosque. Behind us is Haghia Sophia, undoubtedly my favorite site in Istanbul. It was built to be a church in 537 by Justinian, converted to a mosque several hundred years later, and it's now a museum. It was so massive, so impressive, and so amazing to behold.

Inside Haghia Sophia... but the picture really doesn't do the place justice.

Another incredible sight: the Basilica Cistern, also built during the time of Justinian. (6th century) It stored and distributed water to ancient Istanbullus. It was absolutely stunning, and our walking tour had a beautifully creepy soundtrack playing throughout. Kind of like the "Are You Afraid of the Dark" opening credits song.

The view from our hotel window at sunset.

At the Ramazan Festival with our travel buddies Leah and Adena (from HUC) Sadly, this was the only picture I got of the four of us!

At the entrance to Topkapi Palace, the primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans. This place was massive, and unlike other European castles/palaces, this one had a distinctly Oriental feel to it. And the Harem, where the Sultan's thousands of wives, concubines, and sometimes illegitimate children lived, was awesome.

Just a super beautiful color combination of tiles in the Harem.

To close out our trip, we attended a performance of Sufi music and dance held at the train station. The men dancing above are known as whirling dirvishes. They whirl to get closer to God. Again, another fascinating sight to behold. One man in particular had the calmest, most peaceful look on his face as he spun. He was in it.

I hope these pictures give at least a small glimpse into the city that is Istanbul. It is a spectacular place not just to visit, but to really and truly experience.

Until next time!
-Jaclyn

4 comments:

carol niren said...

Outstanding photos, so glad the trip was tremendous. I am sad for Adam to leave you, as well. I feel like I know you both through your blogs and pix. Much mazel as you begin fall semester on Sunday! Carol Niren

Leslie said...

Great posting, awesome pics! See you in a few J Fro!!!

RobynSarah said...

Jaclyn! What a beautiful post about your trip to Istanbul! Thank you so much for sending me some love on my birthday- and I'm glad you finally read my book that I wrote while I was living in Brighton. Haha! If you google search me apparently I am an MD and a country singer as well... go figure. Sending lots of love your way, and wishing Adam a safe and smooth trip home. xo Robyn

Adam Gerber said...

great photos, great blog
but you cant keep me hanging like this!!!

its been nearly 2 weeks! i need a jfro in jlem update asap

love,
gerb