Yamim Noraim shel Aviv

Yom ha Zikaron tekes (ceremony) at the Gymnasia Rehavia high school

If there was ever a day on which a person could get the most pure, undistilled picture of Israel, a day in which everything about who they are and why they are who they are was on full display, it would undoubtedly be Yom ha Zikaron. 

Yom ha Zikaron literally means "Day of the Memory," from the root זכר - remember. It is Israel's day of remembering its fallen soldiers - their heroism, their devotion to the state of Israel. In recent years it has also become a day to remember victims of terror attacks. Yom ha Zikaron is a day so unlike any other; a day where the entire country comes to a standstill and remembers, observes, and expresses its otherwise unexpressed emotions. 

Last week was Yom ha Shoah, the first of the three springtime Yamim Noraim - days of Awe. That particular day commemorates the Holocaust. Last Monday, I was fortunate to attend the national ceremony held at Yad Vashem. It was a tremendously moving experience, especially when you think about how intertwined the Holocaust and the inception of the state of Israel are. While the events of the Holocaust did not ultimately create Israel, they certainly expedited an already decades-long process to form a Jewish homeland. So the connection between the two is quite deep, and quite powerful.

Exactly one week later, the country ushers in Yom ha Zikaron. It begins with the most chilling sound one can hear - the sound of an air raid siren echoing throughout the country. It literally cuts right through you, and all you can do is stop and listen and bow your head. The same one goes off on Yom ha Shoah, but for some reason on Yom ha Zikaron it just felt different. On both days, you watch traffic come to a standstill, people get out of their cars, and stand at attention. I cannot imagine a more perfect picture of national unity and identity. 

Yom ha Zikaron is such a hugely significant day here in Israel. Every single citizen is connected to the army in some way, and nearly every single person has lost family or a friend, or both. So literally, the entire population of Israel is implicated in this day - no one is immune. 

Yesterday, after leading services at HUC, we made our way over to Gymnasia Rehavia, one of the oldest high schools in Jerusalem. On Yom ha Zikaron, the school puts together a ceremony for the community. There were speeches and songs, and then students recalled the names of the 138 graduates who have died while serving in the army, or in a terror attack. It was literally bone chilling to watch high school students - not even eighteen years old - carry out the whole thing. To think that they know in their minds, in just a few short years they themselves will be in the army and serving their country... well, it just blows my mind.

Graves at Har Herzl Cemetary

After the ceremony, Leslie and I headed over to Har Herzl Military Cemetary to observe - to see how things are over there on Yom ha Zikaron. It was absolutely breathtaking and moving. Every single grave had flowers, gifts, flags, money, poems, photographs - you name it. People had clearly come to pay their respects. Family and friends left multiple bouquets on single graves. Some people were still there, praying or reading or simply talking to the gravesite, as if that person were still there. 

The most recently added graves

Perhaps the most emotionally gut-wrenching part of the day was finding our way to the big blue tent. Underneath said tent were a greater collection of people and flowers than the other sections, so Leslie and I investigated. Turns out, this particular area is for the most recent deaths. There were soldiers buried there who were killed as recently as January '09, in Gaza. 

I cannot even express what I felt walking through that section. There were so many people - families and friends just sitting, crying, laughing, eating, remembering, recounting the people they lost not too long ago. It tore my heart out. Especially when the groups of soldiers - in full uniform, no less - came together to one grave to visit their friend and comrade. I just... I can't even fathom it. I can't compare it to anything. I can only sit back and recall the experience with pain and respect and tears. 

It's just so very Israel. Having had the experience of coordinating Parallel Lives this year, I feel I've gotten a much better understanding of the mandatory army service. I've come to see how much Tzahal - the IDF - impacts this entire country, creates and molds and shapes these people. Yom ha Zikaron makes it all coalesce into this one perfectly understandable little package -this major moment of clarity in which you understand, you get it. Of course, to translate what you get on a blog is much more difficult than one would imagine, so I'll just let the pictures do what they do. 

And just as the powers that be planned, as soon as Yom ha Zikaron closes out, the country welcomes Yom ha Atzma'ut, Israel's Independence Day and 61st birthday. 

Watch out! A young girl gets creamed (Shaving Cream-ed) on Ben Yehuda 

Transitioning immediately from somber to celebratory, the entire country turns into one big party for Yom ha Atzma'ut. Last night, we headed downtown to watch fireworks, hear live music, dance rikudei am, and join the masses of people in toasting Israel. It was actually a lot of fun, and it was quite thrilling to see Israelis out and about, laughing and having a great night. 

Then today, we did what all Israelis do on Yom ha Atzma'ut: Barbequed. 

Getting our BBQ on... 

Lisa and Deana in Yemin Moshe park

With the BFFs, Lisa and Leslie

All in all, while Yom ha Atzma'ut was such a stark contrast to Yom ha Zikaron, they were both really amazing days to experience. Had I arrived shortly before these Yamim Nora'im last year, I would not have understood them at all. Having been here for nearly eleven months, I just get it. I understand how it all works and comes together as one communal, national thing. 

I'm starting to get tremendously nostalgic and sad about the idea that in 24 short days, I'll be back in California for good. I'm ready, I'm not ready, I'm happy, I'm devastated. I can't believe this adventure is coming to a close. And at the same time, it has been one hell of a year! 

These coming days and weeks will undoubtedly be filled with many blog-worthy moments. I'll do my best to keep the blogosphere in the loop, and will see you all in person very soon. 

Love from Jlem,

Jaclyn

Petra, Spectacular Petra

The Treasury of Petra, as viewed through the Siq (narrow canyon)

There are times in our lives when we experience something so incredible, so unique, so breathtaking, that it resonates within us and stays there forever. 

Petra, the ancient city carved into rose-colored stone in the middle of Jordan, is one of those somethings.

I was incredibly fortunate to visit Petra this past weekend, during the final days of my Pesach vacation. I was also incredibly fortunate to have a cousin living in Aqaba, the resort town of Jordan that lies just across the Red Sea from Eilat. So Ari, Lauren, and myself went down to Eilat on Thursday, crossed the border between Israel and Jordan on foot, and spent the weekend at Cousin Rich's swanky apartment in the 5th district of Aqaba. Early Friday morning we were picked up by a lovely taxi driver named Hatem, and he drove us to Petra for our five-hour experience. We returned for the remainder of an awesome weekend in Aqaba. 

With Ari and Lauren in front of the Treasury. 

Petra, you may recognize, is the facade of the final scene of "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade," one of my favorite movies. Whether from that movie, or from simple promotion by the Jordanian government (who clearly regard Petra as the jewel in their country's crown) it has become the second most-visited "new wonder of the world," just behind the Great Wall of China.

There are few words to adequately describe Petra, and the pictures just can't do it justice. It's such a spectacular place, and there is nothing else like it on earth. It's an ancient city entirely carved out of rock! It's massive! There is so much to see and do and experience, and you climb up onto these structures and you hike up mountains and run and play and it's just so, so incredible. The setting of it all is majestic - you are literally in the middle of the Jordanian desert, with red sand and rock everywhere. The rock itself is stunning, and it changes color throughout the day as the light hits it appropriately. 

The Siq, a narrow canyon that you walk through to enter the city, in the early morning...

And again in the early afternoon.

There was something quite magical and unbelivable about Petra. It almost seemed like a fairy tale. You just can't comprehend how something could be created like that so many years ago. The story goes that the city was created by the Nabateans thousands of years ago, and was a stronghold in the Arava valley. The Negev desert, which I visited with school a few weeks ago, lies on the other side of the hills. 

More Petra prettiness

Despite its location in what was once the Biblical Land, Petra has no religious significance anymore. Its sites were clearly dedicated to religious worship, however. The Monastery, which is up a steep hike I simply could not do (legs are still healing) is a real reminder of the centrality of worship back in ancient times.

Practicing my air guitar on what I deemed to be the Stairway to Heaven

The path leading to the High Place of Sacrifice 

Petra is extraordinary. Even though we were there five hours, I could have easily gone back and done some further exploring. However, it's not easy! It's a lot of moving up and down and hiking in the hot desert sun. But it's just incredible. You're surrounded by people from all over the world - you literally hear dozens of languages around you as you walk through the park. You're seeing things with your own eyes you could never, ever see anywhere else. It just blows you away. I am SO glad we got to go - that we made it happen with only five weeks to go in the program. I feel privileged to have said I visited Petra. 

With Cousin Rich on the balcony of his Aqaba apartment, overlooking the Red Sea

It was also very cool to visit Aqaba, a city in a major period of transition. It is quickly becoming a major resort town, as it is the only city in all of Jordan on the Sea. There is a tremendous amount of real estate invested in its growth. My cousin Rich has lived there for about a year and a half, doing some form of community development. He works with local residents and helps build structures for organization and local leadership. It's actually quite inspiring to hear what he's doing, and to meet the people who he works with and knows. And it was great to see him and spend time with him. 

Crossing the border was a hoot and a half. It's the most relaxed, strange, bizarre experience. You pay your shekels, get your passport stamped by Israel, walk 150 yards of "No-Man's Land," and then you're in Jordan! It's the funniest thing. Slash... kind of creepy. I wish I had taken pictures of the absurdity of it all, but I don't think it's legal to do that. Regardless, just picture something really funny, me laughing while walking between the two countries and sweating, because it was really, really hot. 

Once you get into Aqaba, you really see that you're just not in Israel anymore. It's very much a moderate Arab country. Everything is in Arabic and English, people are dressed conservatively and traditionally, and there's just a totally different feeling there. Aqaba itself felt like a strange mixture of touristy and local-y. We went from dinner in an uppity touristy area to fruit shakes (absolutely delicious fresh fruit) in a very local hubbub-y area. The switch was very apparent. It was fascinating to see how people in Aqaba live there lives. They were all very nice, polite, and interesting. Their approach to women, however, was a little unsettling. I felt very much aware of my femininity while there. You just get treated differently, talked to differently, and viewed differently. It's hard to describe why. It actually made me miss Israel a little bit. 

All in all, the whole weekend was a great success. We had a fantastic time, and all the details seemed to work out flawlessly. We made it back to Jerusalem late last night, in time to start school again this morning. It's now five weeks 'til the finish line, and I can't believe it. The time has come to say goodbye, but it won't be an easy goodbye to say. At all. 

Until next time, 

Jaclyn

Pesach with the Parents

I just spent the most lovely ten days with my two loving parents, Lenny and Jill. They arrived in Tel Aviv on April 4 and stayed through the first night of Pesach here in Jerusalem. Then on April 9, we headed to the Greek island of Crete for five days of sun, fun, and adventure! They're headed back to the states right now, and in 40 days I will join them back in Los Angeles permanently. The countdown has begun!

Hanging out in Ein Kerem, a quaint town in West Jerusalem

What can I say about my parents? They're both incredibly good, funny human beings. They love me and my brother to pieces. They are so incredibly supportive, and both came separately to visit me in Israel this year. They're just wonderful people, and I adore them. As nutty as we are, we have a great time together.

Mom and I on Mamilla Mall, before purchasing a new (professional) tallit for me!

Given that this was their third time in Israel, we had a pretty mellow time exploring Jerusalem. The real fun came when we did a day trip to the north. Our destination was Tzfat, and the other highlights included Rosh Pina for lunch and Zichron Ya'akov for dinner. Each time I head up to the Galilee, I'm reminded of two things: 1) how strikingly beautiful Israel can be, and 2) how much Israel looks like Southern California. 

In the Tzfat Artist Colony 

My parents had never been to Tzfat, so it was cool for them to wander the streets and visit the artist colony. The weather was perfect; warm, but not hot. Clear as crystal. The views were stunning, and it was very relaxing to be out of the Pesach-infused chaos of Jerusalem. And while Rosh Pina is a bit of a snoozefest, Zichron Ya'akov is a fantastic little area with the best pedestrian mall in the country. There's lots of good, cute shops and delicious eateries. The people are mellow and friendly, it's near the ocean, and it's a great place to go. The last time I was there was on our first overnight tiyul back in September; just before High Holidays, right after the start of fall semester. It's shocking to realize how far we've come; how the end is drawing near on this Israel adventure. 

With our proper Pesach placecards 

The holiday of Pesach descended upon Jerusalem like the Angel of Death searching for the Egyptian firstborn. I say that in the most positive way possible! In reality, Jerusalem morphed into the happiest, prettiest little place as people - religious and otherwise - ran around town preparing themselves for the holiday. People in our neighborhood burned their chametz (bread products) and raided the aisles of Supersol for Kosher-l'-Pesach goods. Tourists came from everywhere - Jews and non-Jews alike - and turned the town into a veritable Jewish Disneyland. It was actually a really good feeling, as opposed to other holidays where the mood turns totally somber and people get really, really irritable.

The supermarkets covered the vast majority of their goods that weren't Kosher for Pesach, and have remained that way since the holiday began. Everywhere you look, people are adapting their lifestyle to fit the chag, right on down to my favorite sushi restaurant completely changing its menu for the week of Pesach. It's another example of how fascinating this country can be; how different it is to be in a place where the entire country is mandated to live by a certain Jewish code. Perhaps because I'm looking ahead at my very near departure, it doesn't bother me as much as it did in the past. Instead of rejecting the religious imposition, I'm actually welcoming it and examining it and finding some interesting tidbits in it. Israel, for all its 'ish, never ceases to fascinate me, that's for sure. 

Just in case we forgot each others' names after ten months together!

For the first night of Pesach, my dear friends Meredith and Joel coordinated a communal seder at Meredith and Lisa's apartment. Both Meredith and Joel were hosting their parental visitors, so with my mom and dad, plus Lisa, Jimmy, Ari, and Lisa's friend Micah, we came together to celebrate the holiday together. It was a mish-mash, everyone-takes-a-role seder, and it was great fun. The food was delicious, the room looked great, and it was really special to celebrate our freedom in Jerusalem. After so many years of shouting "next year in Jerusalem!" at my Passover seders, it was truly special, albeit unique, to be here for the holiday. 

Welcome to Greece!

Early the next morning we headed to the island of Crete on holiday. We knew very little about it, except that my trusted travel agent Brigitte could get us a great package deal. So, we went armed with a couple travel books and Lisa and Leslie's recommendations. (They went in August) It turned out to be a fantastic, interesting, beautiful place, and I'm glad we went together. 

Crete is a massive island. Its capital city, Heraklion, is just as modern as bustling as San Francisco. It had all the necessities of any major city: trendy, cosmopolitan bars and restaurants, high-style and haute couture shops, and plenty of things to keep one busy. We didn't stay in Heraklion, but just the thought that we could have access to the modern necessities of a major city kind of shook me. I mean, it's an island in the middle of the Mediterranean. Who knew? There's also the second-largest city, Chania, which is both beautiful and has a rich history. Crete itself has an amazing history.

Mom and Dad lunching in the pretty city of Chania

In Chania, near Eitz Chayim, the restored 15th-century synagogue that served the Jews of Crete up until the Holocaust. 

A plaque in Eitz Chayim bearing the names of Chania's Jews who died when their deportation ship was accidentally sunk by a British submarine in 1944

We explored Heraklion and Chania, plus the other towns of Rethymnon and Agios Nikolaus, and a small village called Archaneus. We visited Knossos Palace, which was supposedly the seat of Minoan culture 4,000 years ago. We ate delicious, fresh, presumably local food. We sat on the beach. We had a ridiculously zippy Fiat rental car. (I still maintain that they're really "Firts," not "Fiats") We just had a really fun time together, the three of us. It was a wonderful time. BUT it was truly incomplete without my brother Andrew. We really missed him! (And it would have been extra-awesome to have Adam there, too) 

Mom and me with the town of Agios Nikolas behind us 

What really struck us about Crete was both its natural beauty and the character of the people. The island obviously has beautiful beaches, but there's a tremendous series of mountain ranges, even some peaks still with snow on them. As we drove across the island, we were each struck by the quaint charm and beauty of the Mediterranean hillsides and the cute little villages. It was so peaceful and calming. 

Dad, Mom, Me, and my giant sun hat in Agios Nikolas 

And the people - I cannot say enough about how nice they are. I think that altogether, Crete survives on its tourism. As this was literally the first weekend of the summer season, a lot of hotels and restaurants were still closed and boarded up for winter. Everyone who we interacted with was so happy to have visitors, and so welcoming, accomodating, and happy to see us. Crete was a lot like Israel in its live-and-let-live/whatever-goes attitude, but in a much more mellow and relaxed way. We loved it, and I encourage everyone to go visit Greece!

A final dinner at Zuni in Jerusalem

As we landed at Ben Gurion yesterday my heart started to swell as I realized the next time I go to that airport, it will be my last. The adventure is coming to a close, and I'm quite emotional about it. Similar to the way I felt as we bid farewell to Israel upon the conclusion of our NFTY trip back in 2000, a part of me feels at a tremendous loss over leaving so soon. While I constantly remind the people I love how mentally "done" I am, and how quickly I want to get back to my old life, I think that deep down, the magnet effect of Israel has got me good. I'm attached to this country, for better or for worse. These past ten months have been incredible; an amazing learning experience for me. The people I care about here, my teachers and my studies; they all mean so much to me. I can't believe that in less than six weeks, it will all be over. 

With a little bit of a glisten in my eye, I bid you farewell... but only for the time being. The Pesach adventure continues on Thursday when Ari, Lauren and myself head down to Eilat and Petra for, presumably, the final travel hurrah of the year. 

Many hugs and Chag Sameach, 

Jaclyn

Desert Rosenbloom

Here's a confession: I love the desert. 

It's kind of an unexpected thing, I know. I don't seem like the desolate-landscape-sand-and-sun-and-extreme-temperatures type. But I really do love the solitude and beauty of the desert, and that stems from my first encounter with the Negev on my NFTY trip back in 2000. I vividly remember sleeping out under the stars - the millions of bright, beautiful stars - and hiking through a haunting, candlelit canyon at night. It was peaceful and quiet and gorgeous, and I loved it.

This past weekend HUC took us on a tiyul to the Negev, and it was fabulous. It came right on the heels of my fantastic French adventure, so I basically got one entire week off, and that is always awesome. 

Photo Credit: Sir Ari Lorge 

We stayed on Kibbutz Yahel, which is associated with the Reform Movement. It's a great, mellow place. The people who live there now mostly came to Israel from the States back in the 1970s - when the Kibbutzim really hit their stride. Many of them were active in NFTY and their own Jewish communities, and decided that life was more enticing on a kibbutz in the middle of the desert. They were all good-hearted people, if just a little bit strange. Life just moves slower on Kibbutzim, and Kibbutzniks are a special, unique breed. (In a good way)  

In the Kibbutz Lotan organic garden.

We also had the pleasure of visiting Kibbutz Lotan, just down the road from Yahel. It's a truly unique place, and their entire emphasis is on sustainable eco-living. They use water-free toilets and live in green-friendly bio-domes. They have a Green Apprenticeship program, which teaches people how to live green-er, and take better care of the Earth. It's really a fascinating thing to observe and visit, though I don't think I could ever live there. 

Solar-powered oven!

At Kibbutz Lotan, we were given a presentation by a certain Kibbutz member who grew up in California and went to Berkeley. I think he was attempting a campaign for making aliyah, but his entire speech came off insulting and condascending. I looked around and realized that almost every single face was unified in a look of both disgust and "hell-no-I-won't!" It was interesting to observe how we each reacted and recoiled both to the idea of totally uprooting ourselves and committing to a permanent life in Israel, or even in the desert. However, after the presentation we all agreed we have the utmost respect for people who can sustain that kind of lifestyle. I guess that's where the line lays: if you can come away with a degree of respect, yet know it's not for you, I guess that's pretty mature. Or maybe just progressive.

A little eco-dome hut. 

All in all, it was a great tiyul. It was fascinating to visit the Kibbutzim, it was incredible to see what they're doing down there, and it was so relaxing to just veg out in the desert. I'm glad I went, I'm glad the weather was awesome, and I'm glad to share the pictures with you. 

Somehow, I've reached the point in my journey where the parents have arrived, Pesach is around the corner, and I am looking ahead at seven weeks left in Israel. It's nothing! I cannot believe it. It feels like only yesterday I first arrived in this apartment and freaked out about this new life in Israel. Yet it also feels like nine years have passed, aging me to the point of no return. It's great to have the parents here again, together, and I look forward to five days in Greece next week. Not to mention my first (and presumably, only) time in Israel for Pesach. I'm excited. 

Lots of Love, and Chag Sameach!

Jaclyn