I just spent the most lovely ten days with my two loving parents, Lenny and Jill. They arrived in Tel Aviv on April 4 and stayed through the first night of Pesach here in Jerusalem. Then on April 9, we headed to the Greek island of Crete for five days of sun, fun, and adventure! They're headed back to the states right now, and in 40 days I will join them back in Los Angeles permanently. The countdown has begun!
Hanging out in Ein Kerem, a quaint town in West Jerusalem
What can I say about my parents? They're both incredibly good, funny human beings. They love me and my brother to pieces. They are so incredibly supportive, and both came separately to visit me in Israel this year. They're just wonderful people, and I adore them. As nutty as we are, we have a great time together.
Given that this was their third time in Israel, we had a pretty mellow time exploring Jerusalem. The real fun came when we did a day trip to the north. Our destination was Tzfat, and the other highlights included Rosh Pina for lunch and Zichron Ya'akov for dinner. Each time I head up to the Galilee, I'm reminded of two things: 1) how strikingly beautiful Israel can be, and 2) how much Israel looks like Southern California.
In the Tzfat Artist Colony
My parents had never been to Tzfat, so it was cool for them to wander the streets and visit the artist colony. The weather was perfect; warm, but not hot. Clear as crystal. The views were stunning, and it was very relaxing to be out of the Pesach-infused chaos of Jerusalem. And while Rosh Pina is a bit of a snoozefest, Zichron Ya'akov is a fantastic little area with the best pedestrian mall in the country. There's lots of good, cute shops and delicious eateries. The people are mellow and friendly, it's near the ocean, and it's a great place to go. The last time I was there was on our first overnight tiyul back in September; just before High Holidays, right after the start of fall semester. It's shocking to realize how far we've come; how the end is drawing near on this Israel adventure.
With our proper Pesach placecards
The holiday of Pesach descended upon Jerusalem like the Angel of Death searching for the Egyptian firstborn. I say that in the most positive way possible! In reality, Jerusalem morphed into the happiest, prettiest little place as people - religious and otherwise - ran around town preparing themselves for the holiday. People in our neighborhood burned their chametz (bread products) and raided the aisles of Supersol for Kosher-l'-Pesach goods. Tourists came from everywhere - Jews and non-Jews alike - and turned the town into a veritable Jewish Disneyland. It was actually a really good feeling, as opposed to other holidays where the mood turns totally somber and people get really, really irritable.
The supermarkets covered the vast majority of their goods that weren't Kosher for Pesach, and have remained that way since the holiday began. Everywhere you look, people are adapting their lifestyle to fit the chag, right on down to my favorite sushi restaurant completely changing its menu for the week of Pesach. It's another example of how fascinating this country can be; how different it is to be in a place where the entire country is mandated to live by a certain Jewish code. Perhaps because I'm looking ahead at my very near departure, it doesn't bother me as much as it did in the past. Instead of rejecting the religious imposition, I'm actually welcoming it and examining it and finding some interesting tidbits in it. Israel, for all its 'ish, never ceases to fascinate me, that's for sure.
Just in case we forgot each others' names after ten months together!
For the first night of Pesach, my dear friends Meredith and Joel coordinated a communal seder at Meredith and Lisa's apartment. Both Meredith and Joel were hosting their parental visitors, so with my mom and dad, plus Lisa, Jimmy, Ari, and Lisa's friend Micah, we came together to celebrate the holiday together. It was a mish-mash, everyone-takes-a-role seder, and it was great fun. The food was delicious, the room looked great, and it was really special to celebrate our freedom in Jerusalem. After so many years of shouting "next year in Jerusalem!" at my Passover seders, it was truly special, albeit unique, to be here for the holiday.
Welcome to Greece!
Early the next morning we headed to the island of Crete on holiday. We knew very little about it, except that my trusted travel agent Brigitte could get us a great package deal. So, we went armed with a couple travel books and Lisa and Leslie's recommendations. (They went in August) It turned out to be a fantastic, interesting, beautiful place, and I'm glad we went together.
Crete is a massive island. Its capital city, Heraklion, is just as modern as bustling as San Francisco. It had all the necessities of any major city: trendy, cosmopolitan bars and restaurants, high-style and haute couture shops, and plenty of things to keep one busy. We didn't stay in Heraklion, but just the thought that we could have access to the modern necessities of a major city kind of shook me. I mean, it's an island in the middle of the Mediterranean. Who knew? There's also the second-largest city, Chania, which is both beautiful and has a rich history. Crete itself has an amazing history.
Mom and Dad lunching in the pretty city of Chania
In Chania, near Eitz Chayim, the restored 15th-century synagogue that served the Jews of Crete up until the Holocaust.
A plaque in Eitz Chayim bearing the names of Chania's Jews who died when their deportation ship was accidentally sunk by a British submarine in 1944
We explored Heraklion and Chania, plus the other towns of Rethymnon and Agios Nikolaus, and a small village called Archaneus. We visited Knossos Palace, which was supposedly the seat of Minoan culture 4,000 years ago. We ate delicious, fresh, presumably local food. We sat on the beach. We had a ridiculously zippy Fiat rental car. (I still maintain that they're really "Firts," not "Fiats") We just had a really fun time together, the three of us. It was a wonderful time. BUT it was truly incomplete without my brother Andrew. We really missed him! (And it would have been extra-awesome to have Adam there, too)
Mom and me with the town of Agios Nikolas behind us
What really struck us about Crete was both its natural beauty and the character of the people. The island obviously has beautiful beaches, but there's a tremendous series of mountain ranges, even some peaks still with snow on them. As we drove across the island, we were each struck by the quaint charm and beauty of the Mediterranean hillsides and the cute little villages. It was so peaceful and calming.
Dad, Mom, Me, and my giant sun hat in Agios Nikolas
And the people - I cannot say enough about how nice they are. I think that altogether, Crete survives on its tourism. As this was literally the first weekend of the summer season, a lot of hotels and restaurants were still closed and boarded up for winter. Everyone who we interacted with was so happy to have visitors, and so welcoming, accomodating, and happy to see us. Crete was a lot like Israel in its live-and-let-live/whatever-goes attitude, but in a much more mellow and relaxed way. We loved it, and I encourage everyone to go visit Greece!
A final dinner at Zuni in Jerusalem
As we landed at Ben Gurion yesterday my heart started to swell as I realized the next time I go to that airport, it will be my last. The adventure is coming to a close, and I'm quite emotional about it. Similar to the way I felt as we bid farewell to Israel upon the conclusion of our NFTY trip back in 2000, a part of me feels at a tremendous loss over leaving so soon. While I constantly remind the people I love how mentally "done" I am, and how quickly I want to get back to my old life, I think that deep down, the magnet effect of Israel has got me good. I'm attached to this country, for better or for worse. These past ten months have been incredible; an amazing learning experience for me. The people I care about here, my teachers and my studies; they all mean so much to me. I can't believe that in less than six weeks, it will all be over.
With a little bit of a glisten in my eye, I bid you farewell... but only for the time being. The Pesach adventure continues on Thursday when Ari, Lauren and myself head down to Eilat and Petra for, presumably, the final travel hurrah of the year.
Many hugs and Chag Sameach,
Jaclyn
1 comment:
I caught up with you this am, with a glisten in my eyes, as well. Would love to meet your parents one day, I enjoyed your photos and marvel at the striking resemblance between you & your mom:) I feel the bittersweet that all of you are experiencing as you countdown..you are awesome, Jaclyn. Thank you for your presence in Leslie's life. Enjoy & continue to touch those who have the privilege of knowing you.
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